TOYOTA - Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V (AE86)

CIVIC AERODECK · 05 de Dezembro de 2003, 07:10

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E prontos por hoje acho que já chega de fotos...Amanhã há mais.
:b

Edited by: http://p086.ezboard.com/bamigosdosjaponesesantigos.showUserPublicProfile?gid=umtali>Umtali at: 28/10/07 1:04

Kaizen · 12 de Maio de 2003, 20:24

Antes de começar esta mensagem lembrei-me logo de meia duzia de entusiastas (alguns deles já participarem aqui no forum) com muito mais conhecimentos do que eu sobre este modelo. Assim fico descansado ao saber que quem quiser saber alguma coisa sobre este modelo, da década de ouro da Toyota, está no sitio certo e certamente ficará satisfeito com as respostas

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É grande o entusiasmo entre os adeptos deste modelo, basta ver as cotações deles no mercado de usados. Chega de letra e passemos ao detalhe:

A alma deste carro é o sobejamente conhecido (pelos apreciadores) 4A-GE 1587cc Twin Cam (dupla arvore de cames á cabeça) e 16 valvulas.

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Tal como o Corolla DX estreou as 12 valvulas em carros de grande produção, na mesma época o Corolla AE86 foi o primeiro modelo de produção em larga escala com 16V. Este motor é resultado da experiência obtida com os motores Twin Cam que equipavam os Celicas da 1ª geração, o 2T-G e o 18R-G.

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Este motor tinha injecção electrónica e um sistema de admissão variável TVIS (Toyota Variable Induction System), que traduzindo para uma linguagem mais simples, proporciona uma maior carga de entrada no sistema de admissão e proporciona um maior binário nas rotações mais baixas do motor (espero não estar a dizer uma "bacurada").
Conta com 124cv@6600 rpm´s e um binário de 145Nm@5200rpm´s

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4A-GE significa:
4 - Evolução 4
A - Familia á qual o motor (bloco) pertence. Criada em 1978
G - Twin Cam, dupla arvore de cames DOHC
E - Injecção electronica EFI

Diz-se ser capaz de fazer com facilidade os valores anunciados pela marca de 8,5 segundos dos 0-100km\h e 205km\h de velocidade máxima.

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Kaizen · 12 de Maio de 2003, 20:25

Vou copiar uma mensagem antiga do SérgioRZ no forum TPT. Acho que está muito boa, no entanto é dada na sequência de uma questão sobre a beleza do AE86 e das qualidades dinamicas...humm e uma pergunta: "Voçês são puristas ou convertidos?" Ou seja se sempre gostaram dele ou só depois de conhecerem as caracteristicas dinamicas:

Autor: SérgioRZ in forum TPT

Sou um purista!

Desde os meus 12 anos que o AE86 faz parte dos meus carros de sonho! Nessa altura andei num e nunca mais esqueci... O meu primeiro AE86 (prateado) era um carro do meu bairro, que eu vi quase todos os dias durante vários anos quando ia para a escola Mal sabia que ia comprar esse mesmo carro!

Há 3 aspectos relativos ao AE86, que podem ser encardos de várias formas:

-Estética
-Tecnologia/História
-Performance/Dinâmica

A parte estética é, óbviamente, muito subjectiva... quem gosta gosta, quem não gosta não gosta. Pode dizer-se que nunca foi a beleza que tornou o AE86 famoso, embora muitos o achem bonito. Eu acho lindo! Mas há quem ache horrível... é com tudo na vida! Uma coisa é, creio eu, um facto... o design do AE86 resistiu muito bem a 19 anos (1983-2002) de vida. Muitos outros carros com metade da idade fazem pior figura...

A parte da tecnologia é uma das partes mais importantes deste carro. O seu papel na história da indústria automóvel foi muito importante, pelo tipo de carro que era (Lightweight RWD) e principalmente por causa do motor, que foi o primeiro Twincam 16V de produção em série (1983) e deu o arranque para a generalização dessa tecnologia. Além disso, as técnicas de fundição dos metais que foram usadas para produzir o motor foram revolucionárias na época e permitiram criar um motor muito pequeno e robusto ao mesmo tempo. Neste campo, o valor do AE86, e especialmente do motor 4A-GE é inegável.

E andar num AE86? hehehehe é aqui que a maior parte das pessoas se converte A performance e comportamento dinâmico do AE86 são de muito bom nível, e todo o carro respira "raça" e uma alma desportiva que se destaca nas 8.000 r.p.m. do motor a gritar e nas reacções da tracção traseira. A alavanca da caixa elevada, ali mesmo ao lado do volante, e a posição de condução "low profile" ajudam a este ambiente de competição dentro do carro.

Em boas mãos, o AE86 é um carro muito rápido, e difícil de bater por outros concorrentes da sua categoria.

A parte das gajas hehehehhe eu nunca notei nada de mal no carro! Antes pelo contrário É alto charme andar num carro desta idade que esteja como novo, e anda nas horas, principalmente se lá dentro estiver um jovem executivo de sucesso

Um abraço!
Sérgio,

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Eu não conheço o Sérgio pessoalmente mas pelo que tenho visto, ele é um dos grandes responsáveis pela alta quotização dos AE86 em Portugal..... meaning is an AE86 Expert.

nunoturbo · 23 de Julho de 2003, 19:47

LINDO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1:[dass]

Aos incondicionais do modelo...

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Boas curvas... dessas... e das outras!!!!

Edited by: http://pub75.ezboard.com/bamigosdosjaponesesantigos.showUserPublicProfile?gid=nunoturbo@amigosdosjaponesesantigos>nunoturbo at: 21/11/03 9:47

Kaizen · 15 de Dezembro de 2003, 05:05

Retirado do Club 4AG

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The 4A-GE Block

A Submission By Richard White

There are basically two configurations on the 4A-G cylinder block with some minor variations with the five vale versions. In all cases they have these characteristics in common. The cylinder block on the 4A-G is made of cast iron alloy. There are five main bearings held with two bolts each that are 2.70 inches apart. The bores are 87.5mm center to center apart. The weight of the bare block with main bearing and bolts are approx. 76Lbs. (late model 4A-GELU with Oil squirter/coolers) and 67.5Lbs. (4AC type). The stock bore diameter is 81mm. It can be bored out to as much as 83mm. However it is not recommended beyond 82mm because the siamese bore arrangement leaves very little head gasket material between combustion chambers for sealing high combustion pressures and the cylinder wall thickness begins to thin. These thin areas also increase the likely hood that cracking could develop under high thermal loads. Likewise the maximum stroke will not only be limited by the rod lengths (122mm) and deck height (191mm); it will also be limited by the connecting rod bolt to block clearances. Using any stroked crank over 79mm will require grinding on the block with a maximum stroke approaching 81~ 82mm. Note for those using the 7A block and crank you will have 85.5mm of stroke and 206mm deck height.

Blocks from the high compression AE92 (4A-GELU) and supercharged MR2 (4AGEZ) are stiffer/stronger than the other normally aspirated blocks and have proven to hold up well over 200hp. Blocks from earlier engines should be capable of handling anything less than »130hp., since this appears to be where Toyota decided to redesign its blocks for higher output models. I suspect the margin of safety will decrease as output increases. Moreover, the AE92 (4A-GELU) with the high compression pistons have piston oil squirter/coolers, while US model AW11, 4A-GEZ (supercharged MR2s), did not come with them.

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Internal view of an AE92 Hi-comp. 4A-GELU block. Notice the oil squirter placement. Each oil squirter is tapped into the main oil galley. Notice the location difference on #3 oil squirter. This necessitates a configuration difference with the angle of the nozzle and placement of the anti-rotation device. The others are identical to each other. #4 oil spuirter is hidden from view.

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Close up of oil squirter. It is composed of a nozzle and special anti-rotation"stud" and a hollow screw with a special internal check valve. The spring pressure on the check valve is just enough to keep oil from draining back into the sump. Unlike some other engines that operate them at higher RPMs the 4A-GELU squirter is in constant operation, aiding in cooling and lubrication.

It is now common practice for high performance Japanese engines to come standard with oil squirters. These items aid in piston cooling and lubrication, especially under heavy loads. The one pictured from a high compression AE92 (4A-GELU) has a 0.0540 ~ 0.0550 inch dia. orifice, and its check valve has only enough spring pressure to keep oil from draining back into the sump. Many other engines have greater check valve spring pressure that are only activated at high engine RPMs, i.e., at high oil pressure.

Each squirter is mounted as far forward or backward in the block to clear the piston skirt. Therefore, using a stroked crank may necessitate notching the piston skirts. However one should use caution and only notch a forged piston. Notching a cast piston creates a stress raiser where cracking could occur. Nevertheless once notched, the piston should also be shot peened. (It is not the same as bead blasting) (The correct procedure is per AMS-S-13165)

Though "old school" as compared to the "modern" aluminum blocks, the cast iron block does have its advantages. Even though heavier, it is much stiffer and stronger and is just about bullet proof for very high combustion chamber pressures. It is also common practice in racing circles to take advantage of the block's strength, i.e., the engine is used as a stress member in the formula Atlantic cars (I've heard they use the late model supercharged block and have seen the use of special TRD cam covers that bolt to the chassis just behind the driver's head). The 4A-G iron block has also proved itself in many off road, Baja, competitions with out worries. Another advantage, especially with high performance applications, is the cylinder bore and block material homogeneity. Being of the same material, the engine builder does not have to worry about the cylinder bores shifting or the use of special jigs or equipment for boring/horing aluminum cylinder walls. However it is highly recommended to use a deck plate which is identically torqued (like the head) to the block during boring/horing and during align-horning. Moreover, the block should be bored and honed with the main bearing caps torqued in place. And if you are using a metal head gasket, many of the older well know high performance engine builders will even torque the head gasket in place during the boring/horning of the block. This is because even the metal gasket will apply a certain amount of "un-even" pressure on the cylinder walls, distorting the final round dimension they wish to achieve.

The deck plate is usually a thick heavy piece of precision ground steel (minimum 2 inches) or thicker piece of aluminum plate with holes cut into it for access to the cylinder bores. It is ground flat and is extremely rigid. Since deck plates are the results of the performance world, they are custom made. Each deck plate is unique due to the head bolt-hole pattern to that particular engine. The deck plate was invented by engine builders who demanded perfectly straight, round bores after their cylinder heads were installed. However there are engine builders who feel this is unnecessary for good ring sealing since modern rings conform very well and their "experience" may bear them out. However, unless they are named TRD or Paul Hasselgen (98' formula Atlantic engine builder of the year), I would insist on the use of a deck plate. It is just one of those little extra performance tips that is done by people who are serious about performance, workmanship and quality.

After the block has been bored you will need to ask the machine shop if the cylinder bore lip was radiused. They should do this as a matter of course. It will be quite difficult if not impossible to slide the assembled pistons and rings into the bore against a 90 degree lip. It always pays to ask.

The basic requirements for a cylinder block, whether it is new or used, is that it should be clean, crack-free, with reasonably straight, round cylinder bores and reasonably aligned round main bearing bores and tight fitting main caps. However some old time sprint car racers have preferred a well "seasoned" block, i.e., a block that has been left in the elements to stress relieve itself. Since Toyota is no longer making the block most of you will be using used (pre-run/owned) blocks anyway, I think a discussion on green engine blocks is not necessary.

The following are the basic steps that should be followed in the preparation of your block.

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· Checking of original dimensions to determine required machining.

· Check bore size to determine how much needs to be bored or honed to give you the required finished piston to bore clearance. Note, always have the pistons (and their actual measurements) in hand, do not assume this value, and there will be a difference if you plan to use a cast piston versus a forged one. (Forged require larger clearance)

· Check main bearing bores for roundness and size.

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To determine how much material must be removed from the cylinder block deck surfaces, a machinist straight edge is used across the surface. Any gap between the straight edge and the block greater than .002" should be milled flat. The deck height can further be reduced after measuring the difference in height between the pistons and block deck, with the rods and crank bearings installed. The final dimension you want after machining from the deck surfaces is a clearance of .035 ~ .040" between the piston top and the completed head. The compressed thickness of the head gasket must also be considered in the calculation. Note, the compression ratio should be determined by the use (or not) of piston doming and combustion chamber volume, i.e., milling the head and not the block deck. This keeps the rings below the upper end of the block where there is temperature/mechanical instability.

After all machining operations, the block should be deburred. A hand grinder or rotary file is fine for the job. How much time spent here depends on how important you value your hands. The main bearing saddles are quite sharp. But be careful and not mar the bearing saddles or the bores. The oil drain back areas in the center of the block can at this time be cleaned up and deburred, since they are rather rough and are often partially blocked, slowing the oil from draining back into the sump. Note, the Hi compression AE92 (4A-GELU) engine has an external oil drain back tube that helps in returning oil to the sump. See photo. If the tube is not needed it can be removed and plugged if the builder wishes.

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Intake side of 4A-G engine block. Top, 4A-GE, painted and cleaned ready for assembly; Middle, 4A-GEZ, U.S. model AW11; Bottom, 4A-GELU, Hi-comp. AE92, with its additional oil return tube. Notice the additional vertical stiffening ribs at each freeze plug and the thicker horizontal rib above the block oil pan interface. They are added for strength and stiffness.

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Front view comparison between a 4A-G normally aspirated block, right; with a later version AE92 Hi-comp 4A-GELU block, left. Notice the vertical stiffening rib extending from the water inlet opening to the main bearing saddles. Also notice the thicker main bearing saddles to give additional strength and stiffness.

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Rear view comparison between a 4A-G normally aspirated block, right; with a later version AE92 Hi-comp 4A-GELU block, left. Notice the thicker main bearing saddles to give additional strength and stiffness. Not shown, the main bearing caps are nearly identical in size and configuration.

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Exhaust side of 4A-G engine block. Top, 4A-GE, painted and cleaned ready for assembly; Middle, 4A-GEZ, U.S. model AW11; Bottom, 4A-GELU, Hi-comp. AE92. Notice the thicker horizontal stiffening rib just above the engine oil pan interface and the stiffening rib between the freeze plugs for added strength and stiffness.

As part of block preparation, but often times over looked, is the inspection and determination to use the old nuts and bolts, i.e., the main bearing and head bolts. Many if not all Hi performance engine builders will throw away all the old fasteners. They will not take a chance on the old fasteners, while the guy down the street who rebuilds engines (stock) for a living has little knowledge about fatigue, UTS, thread engagement etc. and will use anything available that will fit. Note this determination should be made prior to having any machine work done, since you will want to use these same fasteners properly torqued while the machining is being done. That way, when the engine is fully assembled it will have the round bores it was designed to have.

The first rule when determining to use any nut or bolt is that it must not be damaged and it must fit properly. After all threaded areas have been cleaned (assuming no corrosion) the bolts should easily screw into the block and there should be no damage to the threads, otherwise replace the bolts (assuming you have not damaged the threads in the block). Second is no bolt/screws should be cleaned using a die. Cutting into the threads will only weaken it. If the thread is damaged, do not use it. Only use a brush and solvent to clean the threads. The corollary is that threaded holes should only be "chased" with a special tap (smaller pitch diameter). However I have never been able to verify nor obtain a metric "chase tap". Unlike American standard inch sizes where the thread root may vary in dimension, the metric standard has only one thread root configuration.

As a note ARP (Automotive Racing Products) has available for the 4A-GE high strength, forged, heat treated 8740 chrome moly bolts and studs for the head and mains. The stock 4A-GE uses 10mm- 1.25 bolts. Though a little more expensive, converting to head and/or main studs will not only give added strength and reliability but provide more accurate torque readings because studs don't "twist" into the block. All clamping forces are on one axis, and there is less force exerted on the block threads, increasing its life. This would be well worth considering especially if you are planning to run very high combustion pressures and high RPMs and/or plan to tear down the engine often.

Regardless, if you are using studs or bolts ensure they are installed (torqued) correctly, i.e. threads wet with lubricant. There will be nothing worse than spending all that time and money to have it all come apart. Moreover, any time new fasteners are used for the connecting rods, head or main bearing caps it is highly recommended that the bores be re-machined/honed with the new fasteners torqued to the recommended specifications.

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Blueprinting

After you have received your cylinder block and all the moving components back from the machine shop, check all the critical running clearances. That means you should carefully measure the dimensions of each mating surface to verify, 1) the machinist did a good job and 2) each feature of every component are within tolerance. If they are not within tolerances, you must adjust the dimensions with subtle machine work to bring them into specification. Prepare for a time consuming effort to do the job right. Like the old craftsman said, it is better to measure twice and cut once than measure once and start all over again.

TRD blueprint tolerances for main bearing bore diameter are 52 +.050/+.020mm (1.9685 +.0020/+.0008 inch.) with the resulting combination of crank diameter and bearing thickness equaling a .050 ~ .065mm oil clearance (AE92 Hi-Comp. Group A configuration: .055 ~ .070mm).

If a straight crankshaft will spin freely in new main bearings with clearances of .002" ~ .0025", it does not need to be align bored. The main bearing saddles can also be checked for alignment using a machinist's straight edge and feeler gauge. With the straight edge in place (bearing removed) you should not be able to place or move a .0015" feeler gauge between the main bearing saddles and straight edge. Factory crank pin oil clearance spec. is only .0020 inches.

For proper piston clearances, the cylinder bore measurements should be taken in the thrust and axial direction at 10mm from the top, bottom, and in the middle of the block. The exact area to measure the bore diameter on a piston varies between manufacturers and their recommendation on where to measure should be followed. Usually some where on the lower part of the piston skirt. Cylinder taper should be £.02mm (.0008inch.) and out of round limit is also £.02mm (.0008inch.).

The factory specification for crank thrust is 0.02 ~ 0.22mm (0.0008 ~ 0.0087inch.) with a max of .0.30mm (0.0118 inches) and the max. rod thrust is 0.3mm (0.012 inches). Nominal rod thrust should be 0.15 ~ 0.25mm (.0059 ~ .0098inch.) for adequate oil flow.

If the block has to be align bored/honed, the proper honing procedures should accurately reduce the inside of each bore to the minimum acceptable dimensions, which provides maximum bearing crush. The hone also leaves a very smooth finish in the bore. The Machine shop doing the align horning must know the brand of bearing that will be used in order to hone the block to the smallest acceptable diameter. Maximum bearing crush is desirable not because it retains the bearing in the block and cap but because it provides good bedding for the backside of the bearing to transfer heat to the block and away from the crank.

Note there is a difference between align honing and boring. Boring can and will change the crank spin axis by removing material on any bearing saddle and cap, while honing can only remove very little material at the average crank spin axis. Know what your machinist is using and why.

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Cleaning

After all the grinding and machining the block should be thoroughly cleaned again. Remove the front and rear oil gallery plug with an 8mm allen wench. Before cleaning inspect the depth of the plug into the block. The entrance to the #1 and #4 main bearing should allow full unobstructed oil passage. (Don't forget to re-install and seal them after cleaning) Use a 410 shot gun-cleaning bush to scrub the main oil passage. Smaller 25 ~ 30 caliber rifle bushes can be used to clean the main bearing oil passages. Use a degreaser and solvent followed with hot soapy water to flush all metal particles and coat immediately with oil to prevent rust. Use compressed air to drive away the water and small metal particles that may have been trapped in the block. Note WD40 is not the product to use for long term storage. It contains and will attract moisture. I would recommend Boeshield. It was developed by the Boeing Co. for long term protection on aircraft and works extremely well in the marine environment and especially on cast iron.

Moreover, if there is excessive rust and scale in the water passages, the freeze plugs should be pulled and the coolant passages thoroughly cleaned. It maybe necessary to chemically boil the block, but steam cleaning and solvent wash is probably all that it needs. Carefully check for cracks.

Note, if you are using a stroked crankshaft you may have to make allowance for the connecting rod bolt ends, and as a result several cleanings may become necessary between each crank fitting and grinding operations so as not to scratch the crankshaft or bearings. It is a general practice to have 0.050" minimum clearance between the block and the top of rod bolts. Note all grinding are on the engine block, and care should be exercised on the intake side of the block. This is the thinnest section of the block. 4A-GEZ & 4A-GELU, the Japanese Hi-Comp. blocks, have added extra material to help. See photo.

To clean the main bearing cap and head bolt holes, a 9mm-hand gun bore brush and plenty of cotton swabs will be needed. Any airesol carburetor cleaner will work to flush out the hole and de-lube any residual cutting fluid used (Wear eye protection).

It can not be stressed enough that any amount of dirt in the block will be sucked up by the oil pump, causing wear and have the potential of leading to premature engine failure.

After cleaning, one of the nicer touches is to paint the block. Note all Toyota blocks are painted black to hide the dirt and oil. A good "engine" paint and surface prep. is all that is necessary, but be sure and mask the oil filter area and any of the mating surfaces. Paint or paint flakes inside the engine is not a good idea. Note some hot rodders recommend coating the inner surfaces of a cast iron block with an epoxy paint or Glyptal made by General Electric for a slick surface for the oil to run off and to trap any potential loose grains of casting sand or block granules. But I would wonder about loose pieces of epoxy or Glyptal? Moreover the use of such material does not have very good heat transfer to the oil to aid in its cooling. I'll leave coating the inside up to you.

The following table is a comparison of some of the configuration differences between blocks and their major components.

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Listing of part numbers illustrate factory differences. Part numbers and years may vary depending on original country of sale. Part numbers are subject to change without notice and may not be available. Consult your supplier for proper application.

1. Some block differences are the result of outside configuration differences in hanging different accessories, i.e., power steering, Air Cond., Alternator, etc. and mounting the engine into a FWD or RWD chassis.

2. The specification for the crankshaft main journals are Ø47.988 ~ 48.00mm (1.8893 ~ 1.8898inch.)

References:

Joji & Joel Luz, Toysport, Gardena, CA.

ARP, Automotive Racing Products, Oxnard, CA

1985 Toyota Corolla FR Repair Manual, Toyota Motor Corp. 1984

Corolla, Levin, Sprinter, Trueno, Special Edition Bible, TRD, 1996

AE86 Best Setting, Tatsumi Mook Perfect Series, Tatsumi Publishing Co. 1996

Rviper likes to thank Richard and Club 4AG for supplying this information and countless hours of help he puts toward Club4AG

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Kaizen · 16 de Janeiro de 2004, 06:05

Por NunoClioRS in Contra-Brecagem.com

" 4A-GE's :

Blue Top : motor original do AE86 e AE82 , têm todos T-Vis , blocos com 3 nervuras laterais , cavilhões dos pistons de 18 mm cravados nas bielas e moentes de cambota de 40 mm , têm a embraiagem "pequena" de 180 mm

Blue Top do AE92 Fase 1, AW11 , tem 7 nervuras laterais no bloco , têm todos T-Vis , cambota com moentes de 42 mm e cavilhões de 20 mm flutuantes , o bloco é mais resistente que o Blue Top Original , potencia semelhante . Partes internas algo mais pesadas .

Red Top do AE92 Fase 2 e alguns AW11's , não tem T-Vis (portanto a cabeça tem janelas de admissão pequenas) , bloco de 7 nervuras , cabeça de Hi-comp , são mais potentes (cerca de 130 cavalos anunciados pela marca) .

Silver Top : é o 20 Valvulas estreado no AE101 (nunca se vendeu em Portugal) , tem bielas mais leves , o mesmo bloco de 7 nervuras , pistons são diferentes (têm os cortes para as 5 valvulas) cabeça de 5 valvulas por cilindro com VVT (variable valve timing) . O VVT neste motor tinha só duas fases , não era continuo . Têm admissão por rampa de trombetas de origem (uma borboleta de acelerador por cada cilindro) Sensor de massa de ar tipo MAF ( Manifold Air Flow). A Toyota anunciava 160 cavalos , mas nenhum deu mais que 145 cavalos em dinamometro .

Black Top : é uma evolução do 20 Valvulas estreado no AE111 , com caixa de 6 velocidades, componentes internos ainda mais aligeirados ( as bielas e pistons eram equilibradas de fábrica a menos de 1 grama de difrença de peso) VVT com funcionamento continuo (controlado pela centralina em vez de um simples interruptor ) "trombetas" de admissão mais largas que o Silver Top , sensor de massa de ar tipo MAP (Manifold Air Pressure) . A Toyota continuava a anunciar os 160 cavalos , mas desta vez mais próximos da realidade .

Depois há os 4A-GZE's que são os que têm compressor volumetrico (há diferentes tipos também ) . "

http://www.50mb.net/~hiroko/drift/new86-3.GIF" style="border:0;"/> http://pub75.ezboard.com/bamigosdosjaponesesantigos" target="top">http://rviper.no.sapo.pt/Misc/01aja60.jpg" style="border:0;"/>http://www.50mb.net/~hiroko/drift/kp61.GIF" style="border:0;"/>

nunoturbo · 08 de Março de 2004, 18:55

http://www.geocities.co.jp/MotorCity-Circuit/8038/irasuto/ae86.jpg" style="border:0;"/>

http://images.google.com/images" style="border:0;"/>

http://www.dcn.ne.jp/~webwheel/cars/ae86_2.jpg" style="border:0;"/>

http://www.trdparts02.jp/image/body-ae86.jpg" style="border:0;"/>

Não tentem fazer isto em casa...

http://www63.tok2.com/home2/tuccy/images/AE86-001.jpg" style="border:0;"/>

Old Jap's never die...'cos some clotheads keep bodgin' 'em back together...

Edited by: http://pub75.ezboard.com/bamigosdosjaponesesantigos.showUserPublicProfile?gid=nunoturbo@amigosdosjaponesesantigos>nunoturbo at: 8/3/04 13:02

Kaizen · 12 de Abril de 2004, 06:39

Visitem também esta página: http://www.geocities.com/filipeae86//index.html" target="top">FilipeAE86 de um entusiasta português e membro activo do AJA.

http://www.deephousepage.com/smilies/thumb.gif ALT=":[fixe]">

http://www.50mb.net/~hiroko/drift/new86-3.GIF" style="border:0;"/> http://pub75.ezboard.com/bamigosdosjaponesesantigos" target="top">http://rviper.no.sapo.pt/Misc/01aja60.jpg" style="border:0;"/>http://www.50mb.net/~hiroko/drift/kp61.GIF" style="border:0;"/>
ENCONTRO NACIONAL AJA DIA 9 DE MAIO NA FIGUEIRA DA FOZ . http://rviper.no.sapo.pt/AJA/Ficha%20de%20Inscri%E7%E3o%20Nacional.doc" target="top">INSCREVAM-SE

Microsurfer · 12 de Julho de 2004, 22:09

Bonito!!

http://www.deephousepage.com/smilies/devil10.gif ALT=":[devil]">

Edited by: http://p086.ezboard.com/bamigosdosjaponesesantigos.showUserPublicProfile?gid=microsurfer@amigosdosjaponesesantigos>Microsurfer at: 12/7/04 16:16

ximba · 22 de Agosto de 2004, 17:59

descobri isto no meu baú...

http://www.megagaleria.com/pictures/Pic_2053_3.jpg" style="border:0;"/>

http://www.megagaleria.com/pictures/Pic_2053_4.jpg" style="border:0;"/>

FilipeAE86nr1 · 10 de Setembro de 2004, 08:34

pois...finalmente descobri como postar fotos aqui....então decidi dar a minha humilde contribuição, o teste da revista láutomobile e o catalogo ingles do Corolla tenho-os em original, em papel!

http://www.deephousepage.com/smilies/thumb.gif ALT=":[fixe]"> ....raro...mto raro, infelizmente, o teste da láutomobile chegou-me as mãos incompleto, mas já dá para ter uma ideia, btw, tenho isto em formato enorme para quem quizer, n sei é como posso enviar isto, secalhar vou tentar por online

http://www.deephousepage.com/smilies/scratchchin.gif ALT=":pensador]"> ....

aqui vai!

uma versão limitada no Japão

http://www.megagaleria.com/pictures/Pic_2228_1.jpg" style="border:0;"/>

o catálogo em Inglês (tenho o original)

http://www.megagaleria.com/pictures/Pic_2228_3.jpg" style="border:0;"/>

http://www.megagaleria.com/pictures/Pic_2228_4.jpg" style="border:0;"/>

http://www.megagaleria.com/pictures/Pic_2228_2.jpg" style="border:0;"/>

o teste da revista Láutomobile em 1984 (tenho o original)

http://www.megagaleria.com/pictures/Pic_2228_5.jpg" style="border:0;"/>

http://www.megagaleria.com/pictures/Pic_2228_6.jpg" style="border:0;"/>

http://www.megagaleria.com/pictures/Pic_2228_7.jpg" style="border:0;"/>

http://www.megagaleria.com/pictures/Pic_2228_8.jpg" style="border:0;"/>

http://www.megagaleria.com/pictures/Pic_2228_9.jpg" style="border:0;"/>

o road test à versão Gts americana

http://www.megagaleria.com/pictures/Pic_2228_10.jpg" style="border:0;"/>

http://www.megagaleria.com/pictures/Pic_2228_11.jpg" style="border:0;"/>

que tal uns rascunhos dos prototipos do Levin e do Trueno?

http://www.deephousepage.com/smilies/acclaim.gif ALT=":[acclaim]">

http://www.megagaleria.com/pictures/Pic_2228_12.jpg" style="border:0;"/>

http://www.geocities.com/wangan86beta" target="top">http://filipeae86.no.sapo.pt/wg86b.jpg"/>

nunoturbo · 10 de Setembro de 2004, 21:39

Informação preciosa...

http://www.users.bigpond.com/vidore/toyota_4age_engine.htm" target="top">toyota_4age_engine

Old Jap's never die...'cos some clotheads keep bodgin' 'em back together...

Darkk Pilot · 18 de Março de 2005, 22:29

Finalmente descobri onde éque era suposto eu ter escrito isto...

RViper, tarde mas foi...

Eu acerca do AE86, tenho muito a dizer, páginas e páginas acerca disso, inclusivé com toda a experiência de condução/manuntenção que já tive em carros destes....

Em termos de manuntenção:

O 4A-GE é de facto um motor fenomenal, a sério, já tive dezenas de carros (não tou a brincar) e foi o motor que mais me impressionou, desde a sua simplicidade, ao seu comportamento sempre o achei delirante e tem o dom de ser o único motor que puxa realmente por mim, ao volante de um AE eu não sei o que é o TVIs fechado.... Não sei explicar...

Este 1.6 tem o dom de me fazer vibrar e tremer realmente quando brinco com ele...

Nunca vi um motor que aguentasse tanta tareia, com uma manuntenção tão simples ( a não ser o meu 4A-FE montado no celica que tem 262.000, muitos deles a fundo e até hoje só levou uma bomba de água e um tratamento na cabeça do motor para aumentar a compressão e melhorar o comportamento...), akilo é só meter óleo, mudar filtro e tá logo pronto para outra....

A minha primeira vex num AE foi com um novo membro deste fórum ( joel twin cam ) e vi logo akele conta RPM a passar as 8.000.... Delirante....

Em termos de condução:

De facto o conforto é inexistente, e com uns koni (temporariamente a 100% felizmente, palavras da minha namorada: -Sinto o estomago aos saltos, até a respiração fica saltitante!!!.....), mas com os koni bem afinados fica de facto uma mákina diabólica...

Eu não sou isento de comentar a condução de um AE, porque, eu não sei explicar como, mas é do grupo de 4 carros, em que o estilo de condução pretendida ou necessáriua encaixa perfeitamente na minha, ou seja, eu não sei conduzir vag´s, nem corsas nem nada, mas determinados carros ficam incrivelmente chatos comigo atrás da rodinha....

Felizmente já tive a opurtunidade de esperimentar uns 7 ou 8 ae´s diferentes, desde com amortecedores novos, com koni, com e sem lsd, com pneus novos, velhos, novos à frente velhos atrás e vice versa, conduzir para tempos como para drift, já tive um despiste com um ( se o dono não fosse a pessoa espectacular que é, tinha corrido mal, mas ainda hoje somos grandes amigos ), e de facto adoro o estilo de condução do carro..... Descreve mesmo o meu estilo pessoal...

Para mim, do melhor....

Tenho a acrescentar que tou a morrer por uma volta de TA22, nunca experimentei o outro carro dos meus sonhos.... Pode ser que um dia tenha sorte antes de comprar um para mim...

____________________________________________________________________

"My Life Style, Determines My Death Style..."

F.B.I - Female Body Inspector

http://members.lycos.co.uk/faustopinto/pilot.jpg" style="border:0;"/>

ThE CrOw CsC · 05 de Julho de 2005, 09:07

A informação está misturada entre o AE86 e o AE85, mas cá vai:

http://www.forum-auto.com/fichiers/reportages/thedjfou/sujet228233/L11.jpg"/>

http://www.forum-auto.com/fichiers/reportages/thedjfou/sujet228233/L12.jpg"/>

http://www.forum-auto.com/fichiers/reportages/thedjfou/sujet228233/T08.jpg"/>

E a comparação entre o AE85 e o AE86:

http://img273.imageshack.us/img273/6121/aestabela3mk.jpg"/>

http://ravenboy.blogspot.com/">ravenboy.blogspot.com/ -------- O meu blog!!!!! Comentários necessários SFF!

ThE CrOw CsC · 06 de Julho de 2005, 04:34

Está em inglês, mas espero que percebam

http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/wink.gif ALT=";)">

Ok here is some info for all the new peepz with the term

"AE86" "hachi roku""

The AE86 is a

Toyota Corolla model build from late 1983 to mid 1987 it has difrent names in difrent parts of the world

from its origin Japan its called.

Corolla Levin and Sprinter Treuno

Levin and trueno are thunder and lightning (if i am not mistaking)

The names are till common in japan.

The rest of the world will mostly see the car markt as "toyota corolla".

The Corolla Sprinter know as the "TE71" is the predicessor of the AE86 they have similiar contruction as most parts from driveline engine etc fit both cars like its own.

The TE71 and AE86 are both RWD and are also the last corolla rwd line.
(excluding MR2, Supra, Celica)

Now we keep seeing 2 letters and 2 numbers WTF is it,

AE stand for its type in this case Corolla (also seen on newer models)
86 is the digit number which keeps him unique to its brothers (newer FWD corolla's)

AE86 is just the number and type of the car and nothing more, it tells you you drive a toyota corolla rwd build from 1983-1987.

Now the term "hachi roku" is easier to explain check up with JAP dictionary and you'll see it just means = 86
hachi = 8 roku = 6

There are 3 difrent names for the car

Levin
Trueno
Corolla GT

There are 4 difrent models

2 Coupe's
2 Hatchbacks

Now here comes the info. The trueno has retracable headlights and the levin has normal ones. Although the trueno is widely sold in the US its still called a Corolla.

so we have a

coupe levin/corolla gt with normal lights
hatchback levin/corolla see above

coupe trueno/corolla gt with retracable headlights
hatchback trueno/corolla gt see above

This is basic info to show what the term and type

AE86 means

http://ravenboy.blogspot.com/">ravenboy.blogspot.com/ -------- O meu blog!!!!! Comentários necessários SFF!

TOYOTA - Corolla GT Twin Cam 16V (AE86)

CIVIC AERODECK